Provence-Alpes-Côte D'Azure
Famous for the Coast, But there is so much more
Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur in southeastern France is renowned for its diverse landscapes, rich history, and vibrant culture. There are six departments:
- Alpes-de-Haute-Provence,
- Hautes-Alpes,
- Alpes-Maritimes,
- Var, Bouches-du-Rhône, and
- Vaucluse.
The region attracts many visitors with its stunning landscapes, ranging from the Alps to the Mediterranean, and its rich cultural heritage. And, the ambiance of Provence.
Highlights include Nice, known for its beautiful beaches and vibrant nightlife, Marseille which is one of the oldest cities in Europe, and the French Riviera and its list of seaside resorts like Cannes and Saint-Tropez. The region is also famous for its lavender fields, vineyards, and olive groves, which offer a taste of the traditional Provençal way of life.
Many of our first trips in this area started in Nice as there were flights from Canada to Nice with Air Canada. The Nice airport, with good car rental options was a great take-off point. It is a big airport does not not overwhelme the traveller.
We have stayed in Nice a number of times, but actually preferred to stay just north of Nice in the beautiful town of St. Paul de Vence. Nice is great for shopping, restaurants and walking through the old town; however, we found being up in St. Paul de Vence more peaceful.
On more recent trips to the Region we have stayed in areas near Avignon, a little further into the Region, and with less of the CÔTE D'AZURE influence. That is a nice way of saying a little more away from the crunch of tourists that travel to the sea-side. Avignon is beautiful and there are so many interesting towns to explore in the area.
Nice
Nice is a Mediterranean tourist center and the capital of Alpes-Maritimes département1. Founded by the Phocaeans of Marseille (350 BCE), probably named in honor of a victory (nikē in Greek), conquered by the Romans (1 C CE) it became a busy trading town.
Today it is the leading resort city of the Côte d’Azur. The city’s old town, with narrow winding streets, stands at the western base of the hill known as Le Château. In the new town is the famous Promenade des Anglais stretches 4 km along the waterfront. A mile northeast of the city is the ancient episcopal town of Cimiez, which contains the majestic ruins of a Roman amphitheater.
I first visited Nice in the early 80s, taking the the TGV from Paris. In those days I arrived in a town via the trainlk pulled out my Let's Go book and found an inexpensive hotel. Well I found one, a few blocks from the train station, and I remember noting how many trains pass through Nice.
From the station it is an easy walk along Avenue Jean Médecin to rach the water. A few blocks from the water there is a Galleries Lafayette store. Handy to get anything you need for the trip. Rue Massena meets Avenue Jean Médecin and turning right onto Rue Masséna leads to a busy area of pedestrian streets with outdoor cafes and bars. There is a great buzz in the air. Don't disregard the restaurants either as a few of them do very good meals.
Heading down to the water and you cross the large and very busy Promenade des Anglais to reach the waterfront walkway. Watch for the lights. I have walked across this road, sometimes with too much confidence. I know from driving along it, after being clogged in traffic on the narrow streets of Nice, driving fast on the Promenande des Anglais is a way of finally getting going!
In later years Karen and I would fly into Nice picking up our car for the trip (no more train travel)! Unfortunately the Air Canada flights to Nice stopped, and then Air France started Vancouver to Paris non-stop flights.
Nice is a place to see the water, and walk along the beach, but swimming there is a different experience. The beach is small rocks, real foot killers. Now we did treat ourselves on one trip, rented chairs that provide a carpet to your chair, and of course drink service!
But do visit the old town. The morning flower market is very colourful.
The buildings have the flair of Paris with the Belle Epoque style or the Baroque influenced houses. Place Rossetti is located in the old town. Here the buildings have create colours - reds and yellow ochres surrounding the square. The Cathédrale Sainte-Réparate is found here. Restaurants, cafes and ice cream to be found. At night the Rossetti comes alive with tourists milling around.
photo: mytravellinglens.com
Nice has warm colours and wrought iron balconies
photo: mytravellinglens.com
The streets in the centre of Nice are pedestrian only.
Avignon
This is a major spot in Provence, famouse for its bridge and the Palace of Popes and the walled town itself.
There are seven gates through the walls into the town. The largest of the structures is the 14th Century Palace of the Popes - considered one of the largest and most important medieval Gothis buildings in Europe. The Palais is a combination of two buildings. The oldest part, Palais of Benedict VII and the newer Palais of Clement VI. After the six conclaves for Popes here in Avignon, the Popes returned to Rome. Politics with France as to the location of the papacy and general security and safety of Rome at the time. Lots of pressure that the seat of the papacy should be on the tomb of St. Peter. After the Poples left, desite being the seat of two anti-popes and cardinals, the Palais lost its prestige. When the French Revolution took place, the Palais, in bad shape by then, was seized and sacked. It became a military barracks and yes, like so many medieval strucutres, a prison. If you want a peace for the quite villages of Provence, the crowds will be here.
The Saint-Bénézet bridge , commonly called the Pont d'Avignon, was for a time one of the few bridges to cross the the Rhône vetween Lyon and the Mediterranean Sea - forming a curve 920 metres long and four metres wide. A flood in 1479 wiped out two of the arches. Although repairs, they collapsed again twice in the 1600s.
The massive walls of Avignon stretch almost 4.5 kilometres and date from the 14th Century. There are only fragments of the previous walls built in the 13th Century. The walls are eight meters high, reinforced with 35 high towers and 50 small towers. They are a sight to take in.
Also to be seen in the Cathédrale Notre-Dame des Doms located next to the Palais de Papes and dates bacvk to the 12th Century. Another church to see is the Eglise Saint-Pierre. It dates to 1358 and is located in the Place Saint-Pierre just a little away from the Papal Palace in the middle of Avignon.
The Place de l'Horloge or Clock Tower Square is Avignon’s main square. Here you will find the Hotel de Ville or City Hall of Avignon which dates to the 19th century. It will remind you of the Hotel de Ville of Paris.
Avignon Les Halles is an amazing covered market located at the heart of Avignon. It was launched in 1859.
Want some peace and quiet, then try The St-André Abbey Gardens located inside the Benedictine and royal abbey of St-André.
Palais of the Popes
photo: G Marcus | mytravellinglens.com
Pont St. Benezet
Beautiful streets within the town, ambiance that just stays with you.
Photos: mytravellinglens.com
St Paul de Vence
We have visited this town many times. On our early trips to France there was at that time an Air Canada flight that terminated in Nice. That was handy. We would pick up our car from the Renault TT service in Nice and stay at Saint Paul de Vence. We stayed at Le Hameau, which is just a few minutes down the road, outside the walls of town.
Saint-Paul de Vence, a medieval town perched on a mountain top, is a 20 minute drive from Nice. It has a rich history that spans over a thousand years. Most likely settled in the 10th or 11th century, around 1418, King Louis III declared St. Paul de Vence to be a Royal Town. Walls were built in 1544 and 1547 by Francis I Valois.
The village is well preserved with the medieval walls still encircling town of narrow streets. The fountain at the centre of the village dates from medieval time.
During the 1920's it became a celebrity village by many of the best known artists in France. The Colombe d'Or, the famous hotel in the town, was the scene for many of the famous artists. They would run up bills and pay with works of art. The dining room includes paintings by Picasso.
The streets of Saint-Paul de Vence were bare until the beginning of the 1950s. Mayor Marius Issert laid cobbles positioned on their sides in the Provencal tradition. Now the town is a popular destination for both artists and the cinema, with many film directors using the ancient walls of St. Paul de Vence as a backdrop for films.
Walk through the 13th Century Gate, Porte Royale, and then walk along the main street. There is the Grand Fountaine and then to the Porte Sud. The cemetry is the resting place of artists such as Chagall, Maeghts, Escoffier and others. Just outside of the town is the Foundation Maeght, one of the most noted modern art museums in Europe.
Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
This is a lovely French town that we always make sure to visit when in Provence. It is located about 15 kilometers from the town of Arles. Filled with picturesque historic architecture, charming narrow streets, art galleries and small shops there is much to see and enjoy. Described in travel articles as being elegant and understated. We have enjoyed our time in this town. My visits are generally early in the morning before the influx of tourists. There is such a calm to the town. But come later in the day and you will find it alive with markets - held on Wednesdays from 7:00 am to 1 pm, cafes will all be open and it is just a great place to be. On market day you will have to park well outside the town and walk in.
Just out side of the town are some impressive Roman structures, the Antiguities. There is also the Glanum archaeological site. This ancient Roman city was founded in the 3rd century BC. The site includes a temple, a marketplace, and several other ruins.
Not far from the old town is the Saint-Paul de Mausole, the psychiatric hospital where Van Gogh sought solace and inspiration. Today, the asylum stands as a testament to the artist's turbulent yet prolific time in Saint-Remy. You can see his room, and the views from his windows and immediately see some of his paintints that we carry in our memories.
Villefrance-sur-Mer
We have stayed here, rather than in Nice, and if you want a bit more peace in terms of the pace of Nice. We wanted a hotel with a pool where we could relax and look out over the bay.
Located just down the coastal road, the corniche, in the next bay, the town is very plesant and we were there when the cruise ship traffic was low. The cruise ships always look great when they are docked in the bay. Along the docks are fishing boats and because of the depth of the bay there will be larger ships anchored. It is one of themost visited cruise ship ports of calls of France.
Along the water is the Rue Obscure, or the Dark Street. This is a covered street that runs along the houses on the harbour. The street dates back to 1260.
The location is an option. On your first visit to the Code D'Azure probably staying in Nice is your choice. But on your subsequent trips you may want something a little different. The drive to Nice is about 15 minutes so getting along the coast is very easy.
Abbaye de Sénanque
The Abbaye de Sénanque, located just outside of the town of Gordes, dates from the 12th Century. At that time there was a massive expansion to build monasteries across Europe. In the 12th Century over 700 are noted as being built.
In 1988, a community of cistercian monks returned to the abbaye and today live and pray in the abbaye. Guided tours of the abbaye are required to visit, as this is an "active" abbaye. More information on the abbaye is found in our website - Cloisters.
The church is plain, as nothing was to detract the monks from their prayers. Cistercian Abbayes are known for their extreme simplicity in design. Only light, a symbol of God, is allowed to transform the space.
There are lavender fields infront on the abbaye. When in the Spring 2022 we travelled to the Region again, I debated returning to the Abbaye, mainly to photograph the lavender field, which was not in bloom on previous visitsd. In the end, I found lavender fields at other abbayes in the Region.
Arles
Arles is a very interesting town and our first visit we were drawn to see the Roman Arena and experience a bull fight. The Roman Arena is impressive, but the bull fight, I don't think I want that experience again.
But years later we returned to see the Roman architecture of the city. Arles was once a major Roman city now it is a great destination within Provence.
The Boulevard des Lices is a good starting point, as this is where it all happens in this town. Lined with plane trees, cafés and markets (Wednesday and Saturday mornings). At the Place de la Républic is the obelisk that originally in the Roman Circus - in Rome.
The buildings from the Roman era include the arena, the theatre and the cryptoporticus. the baths of Constantine and the necropolis of Alyscamps.
This was an important location for the Romans. They even built a floating bridge to cross the Rhône and through Arles was the land route from Italy to Spain. So established was Arles that it was the first area outside of Italy that Roman officers were given land on which to retire.
In 1888, Vincent van Gogh came to Arles to live and created over 300 paintings and drawings here -- this is where Starry Night Over the Rhône was created. Despite this, don't be looking for exhibitions of his work. You'll have to go back to Paris for that!
The Cathédrale St.Trophime with its bell tower and Romanesque doorway is stunning. The cloister is considered one of the best in Southern France. Four galleries and a courtyard.
The Roman Theater, or Théâtre Antique is a semicircle of tiers facing towards the stage house with its Roman columns with two columns remaining. The Amphi Theater - the Arènes could hold 30.000 people. Two tiers of the arches remain as during Medieval times, the upper levels were taken away to build other buildings in Arles.In fact, in medieval times, the arena was used as for with more than 200 houses built inside.
Oh yeh, about that first visit. The bull fight was not something that I would want to see again. They basically torment the bull until it runs around the arena is a state of confusion. I particularly like the shot I captured of the man jumping for his life over the wooden fence. At the point the bull tried to jump the fence and came crashing down on the wood. Enough.
We visited Arles again in 1981. Arles is a World Heritage site due to the number of Roman monuments. The Cathédral Saint-Trophime, and its cloister are impressive and were the primary goal of our 1981 visit. Dating back to the Medieval times the Saint-Trophime and its cloister (11th and 12th centuries). The catherdral is considered one of Provence's major Romanesque monuments. On our 2011 visit to France we were staying near Avignon and traveled down to Arles for the day specifically to see the cloisters. Well worth the drive.
We returned in 2022 and 2023, Arles is a great town to visit and on the most recent trip in 2023 we hit market day! It is a big event with blocks and blocks of vendor stands.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Carpentras
Carpentras has a rich history spanning several centuries. Gauls, Greeks and Romans all were involved with this town. In the Middle Ages, Carpentras became the capital of Comtat Venaissin - which was a part of the Papal States and not part of France. The Catholic Popes were not based in Rome, but in nearby Avignon, in what was called the Avignon Papacy. The Comtat founded in the Middle Ages (1274) and dissolved in 1791.
Today, Carpentras's town center is surrounded by fortified walls dating back to the Middle Ages, and its narrow streets open up into large squares. It also has the oldest synagogue in France.
On our 2022 visit to Provence I went to Carpentras twice. I liked the town that much. Located in the Vaucluse department. This area was not only under the control of the Popes but it was frequently the residence of the Avignon popes. Now the town is famous for its black truffle markets held from winter to spring. I found the town had a great vibe. The Cathedral, the Carpentras Synagogue and the just being in the historic centre make this place to visit.
Châteauneuf du Pape
Located about 10 km south of the city of Orange, or 12 km north of Avignon in the Region of Provence-Alpes-Côte D'Azur, on the D68. When I was there early in the morning on our Spring 2022 trip it was a sleepy pleasant town. I think I was expecting crowds of people, but there is an advantage of visiting the towns early while people sleep!
Châteauneuf-du-Pape has the remains of it's fortress castle located at the top of the hill. It is always a big sad reading about this massive castles and their demise. This castle was built in the 14th Century for Pope John XCXII, the second of the Popes to reside in Avignon. With the departure of the Popes the castle was passed to the archbishop of Avignon, but in the end was too big and expensive to maintain. It became a source for stones used for various buildings in the village. During World War II German soldiers destroyed the north section of the castle.
A walk up the main street towards the Château is pleasant. The appellation "Châteauneuf-du-Pape" means the wine production meets the controls of some 55 vineyards. Because of the time of by visit all the wine stores were closed, but during regular hours I could see this walk being quite busy.
Crestet
Don't miss the village of Crestet. It is described as a secret village with charm. As time goes on, it may not be a total secret as on our 2023 vist to Provence. Follow road D938 and then a small road D76. Leave your car in the small parking lot and walk up and into the town.
While walking in the town I met a small group of visitors, and throughout 2024 I would see everyone once in a while a post with a photo of Crestet - so it is getting to be known. But there will never be the crowds your find in the A-Rating places.
This is an old stone town, that sites on a crest of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains. The town has narrow streets and lots of stairs. At the top of the hill are the remains of the castle which was one of the oldest (860) in the the old previous area called the Comtat Venaissain. As you walk the narrow cobblestone streets and staris there are numerous stone arches to explore the town so there are endless photo locations. This was the town of the residence of the bishops of Vaison la Romaine. When there were conflicts the bishops would come here and stay in the chateau.
Don't expect alot of retail here. This is a village of ambiance. The old centre of the village is located around the Romanesque Saint-Sauveur Church. The beautiful fountain (1843) stands in the small square and then to the side is the old washouse. So part you car and walk up and enjoy the village.
Noted archited Roger Anger renovated the historic castle which was once the residence of the Bishop of Vaison las Romaine. It is pricey but you can rent it for a week!
Walk aslong the Chemin de La Verrière and visit the Notre-Dame de Prébayon Chapel. A monastery had been built in the 7th century. There is a 'miraculous' spring called Malézieux, and the thin stream of water that trickles past the altar is credited with healing the eyes and sight. I wish I had known that when I was there or I would a sprinkled a little water over my eyes and I may not have needed my catatract surgery! For thousands of years every Easter Monday a pilgrimage to the chapel is organized.
So no big named sights to see, but an old stone village that will leave you with memories that will last a lifetime.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Beautiful stone strees and archways wait for you in Crestet
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Fontaine-de-Vaucluse
This is a very popular site in France, worth a detour as they say in the Michelin books. Well, I am not sure what we were expecting, but it was not what we found. But on our Spring 2022 travels through this area I stopped by again. It was early in the day with only a few of the cafes open but I could sense the traffic was starting to pick up.
The Fontaine de Vaucluse is where a subterranean river, one that drains the water from the linestone plateaux of the Vaucluse comes out of the ground.
On our first visit we had unlreasitic expectations. We saw one of the pools being filled by this underground spring/water system. It is actually one of the most powerful springs in the world. How deep is the pool? We were told that in 1985 they sent a small robot submarine down 315 meters and it still did not find the bottom. On my 2022 visit I found the stream running through the town to be soothing and very scenic.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Gordes
Gordes is located about 38 km from Avignon.
Perched on the edge of the Plateau de Vaucluse its stone stark buildings say you are in the inland of Provence. Like most small towns, there are cobbled stone streets, narrow passageways, and the streets and roadway wind their way to the top there there is a church and a castle.
The castle has been restored. IT was rebuilt back in 1525 and some of the features of note include an impressive renaaissance-styled staircase and ornate fireplace. The homes are made from white stone and they have been very carefully restored.
The town has a starkness about it, but at the same time there are interesting arches and doorways to keep most photographers happy. Some of the travel books refer to this as the most visited of the villages in this area. It is one of the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" so it is on the list to see!
But don't rush to get the village. Take your time as it is most impressive to see from the distance. The views of Gordes on the approach really bring out the hill and stark look of the village.
From the town there is an incredible view out to the valley and the mountains of the Luberon.
More photos of Gordes on My Travelling Lens.
The Abbaye de Sénanque is only 4 km from here, that that was part of our Cloisters Tour and well worth a vist.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue
The town of L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as The Island of Venice. Here, the river Sorgue divides making a number of canals which run through the town creating a beautiful scene of canals and bridges. While the river and canals are great tourist features now, in the 12th Century, the Sorgue River served to defend the town by creating moats along the defense walls. Later the water powered the mills and supported the industry of the town. Now the town is known for its art galleries and more than 350 antique and boric-a-brac dealers.
We have been here befor and it was great to get return. This year we again visited the town on a Sunday - Market Day - and it was packed. Too packed for my comfort. The market is one of the larger ones in the area and includes not only food and clothing but antiques and interesting boric-a- brac.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Orange
Orange is located 31 kim from Avignon. We have enjoyed previously visiting this town and it was good to return in 2022. I had read about the Roman Theatre and was thinking that the theatre may be something like structures in Rome or Arles. But the theatre in Orange is a theatre that was used to stage plays. The Théâtre Antique and the Arc de Triomphe are two of the largest Roman structures standing in in Western Europe and worth seeing.
The theatre was built in pre-christian times, with the rise of Christianity, the theatre was ordered closed after the fall of Rome. In fact, it stood idle for years. Then the town of Orange was invaded and the theatre was sacked and burned.
During Medieval times it became its own fortified town with houses and streets. Later during the French Revolution it was converted into a prison. Then, thankfully for us today, in the 1800's, while it was still serving as a prison, efforts were made to reconstruct what could be back to its status as theatre.
From taking our tour we found our some of the history and character of a Roman Theatre. The productions would have lasted an entire day. The original theatre also had a retractable canvas roof. It was built into the side of a hill, and the hill forms the nature slope for the rows of seats to rise from ground level to a significant height. I was impressed and glad we spent some time here.
The other significant Roman structure is the Arch de Triomphe. The Arch was built around 20 BC. Get up close as the structure is covered with intricate frieze and relief work.
The Arch was originally built by the Romans to celebrate their victories against the Gauls. When it was first built, it was well outside the walls of the town. Today, it sits in a traffic circle. I guess is it is okay to have a famous Arch in Paris be in a traffic circule, then what is so wrong with leaving this as is. But, despite its location, it still stands a regal as ever. I must say that on my 2022 visit the road is more visible, but they have build a park around the arch and it looks very good.
More photos of Orange on My Travelling Lens
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Le Beaucet
One morning I was on the hunt for a couple of very small old villages. Le Beaucert was one, and I enjoyed my morning walk through the old town as well as to the top of the hill. A pedestrianised -- little old streets are too small and steep for cars -- village running down the side of a hill. It is situated south-east of Carpentras and east of Pernes-les-Fontaines in the centre of the Vaucluse department of Provence. Park outside below the village and walk in. I enjoyed it. Walk the streets and then follow the path that leads to the castle. No big monuments, although this square with its old fountain appeased me, there is a little hotel but other than that it it just you and the atmosphere.
I was there very early in the morning so the 12th century Church of Saint-Etienne, the belltower and a typical Provencal campanile were closed of course. It started as a rather plain church in the 12th century but expanded in the 15th century, and the tower added in the 19th century to be used as a watchtower for fires. In the 1650's relics of Saint-Gens were brought here from the sanctuary of Saint-Gens so they would be protected from pillage, and they remaind here until the 1960's when the risk of pillage was deemed to have passed!
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Pernes-les-Fontains
Karen and I visited this town a number of years ago and enjoyed our time here. For our 2022 and 2023 visits to Provence, the house we rented was relatively closeby so I took in the town a number of times. Each time I think I saw something a bit different and I never drove away saying "well that is done, no need to ever go back!".
The town has a walking circuit that will take you by most of the forty (40) fountains in this town. Some are active with water trickling out, and others have been left unused, but they are all scenic. For the 2022 and 2023 visits it has been bery dry in the southern part of France, so it was understandable that not all the fountains were flowing.
The circuit starts in the historic centre of Pernes-es-Fontains. Two sign-posted routes allow you not only to discover the 40 fountains of the village, but also to walk through the narrow cobbled streets, to see the monuments and private mansions, the gardens and medieval remains.
Make sure to visit the impressive Porte Notre Dame which is pictured to the right. The Nesque River runs along the wall. Facing the porte is the Notre-Dame-de-Nazareth church. The gate deates to 1548 and the Notre-Dame-des-Grâces chapel which was built in 1510. The gate was destroyed by the Germans dureing World War II but restored in 1951.
Photo: mytravellinglens.com
Ménerbes
On our 2023 trip to France I visited Ménerbes. Returning home I see that Time Out lists this as one of the prettiest villages in France. The article notes "fewer than 1,000 people are lucky enough to call Ménerbes their full-time home, and oh my, are we jealous of those lucky ducks. A walled village at the foothills of the Alps, this Provence pearler makes the most of its dramatic location with stunning views and tranquillity that belies its often turbulent history. Picasso’s muse lived here, which shouldn’t be a huge surprise."
My early mornng visit measnt I had the town to myself. I enjoyed walking the pleasant streets and taking in the old architecture. There is climbing of course, but not that hard of a walk to the top of the town. There, walk along the old walls and see some of the buildings, like the old prison, that is built right into the wall. You can also see the old Citadelle, the cemetry and the Chateau du Castellet where the expresionist painter Nicola de Stael once lived. There is plenty of 16th and 17th architecture to enjoy.
While all is calm now, at one time not so. In the 16th Century the town withstood the force of some 12,000 Catholic troops raging against the town's defenses for 14 months. The poor chateau du Castellet received the greatest attention. It ended bad as the village ran out of water.
In the centre of the village you will find some restaurants, a bakery, a small food store and of course, an ice cream parlour. So with your essential needs covered you can walk the old streets and enjoy the ambiance.
photo: mytravellinglens.com
