Marcus Travel Journal
2024 - Umbria
photo: mytravellinglens.com
Returning to Umbria
On our 2023 travels we enjoyed our time in Umbria very much so we returned this year. Information on the Region is also included in our Travel Journal.
Montefalco
photo: mytravellinglens.com
It was great to return to the Montefalco area. I find the landscape in this area to be very appealing.
Montefalco is a relatively small town with a population of under 6,000 that sits on a hill with its walls and a gate for protection. It has been in existence from pre-Roman times and still has made of its historic medieval buildings. It was for over 400 years part of the Papal States. Today it holds the I Borghi piĆ¹ belli d'Italia designation (most beautiful villages of Italy).
The town is enclosed by its old walls with gates allowing traffic into the town. Despite staying near Montefalco for a couple of years, we have yet to visit the Church of San Francisco on the Piazza del Comune. It has frescoes depicting scenes of the life of St Francis. of AssissiBut I did visit additional churches. It was a week day and I guess I was lucky. The door was open, I went in. But as I left, the door was shut and locked! The church of Sant'agostino and Santa Chiara are also noted.
Medieval Towns
photo: mytravellinglens.com
As I drove the area I did additional research and found that the Romans had two of their roads cross, just South West of Montefalco. The Roman Roads became Medieval roads and the area has a number of old medieval towns and castles.
One of the old towns I visited was Montecchio (Province of Perugaia) located along SR316.. There are a few other towns with the same name,
This small ancient town was build on the Roman Consular road build by Censor Caio Flaminio in 220 BC to connect Rome and the Adriatric ports. There is a sign by the old gate through the wall referencing Caio Flaminio. I think from what I have read, this was the western branch of the famous Roman road.
Fabbri de Montefalco
photos: mytravellinglens.com
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Old archway lead to the areas of Fabbri de Montefalco, now they lead to someone's yard!
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Walking the old town there are signs of its previous grandeur - like archways with frescoes in the sides of buildings still remaining. This I take it are called aaedicule, and there are few of them in the town containing frescoes and they date from the 16th Century.
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One of the towers of the medieval structures still stands.This is the Matigge tower that remains from the 14th Century Fabbri Castle.In 1932 the tower was transformed into a water tank for the use of towns.
I always like discovering a town that is basically not known as a destination for today's travelers. Fabbri de Montelfalco is certainly that. Today it is known for its winneries. But the castle of Febbri was built in the 14th Century, this was part of the Albornozian defense systenm to protect Spello. Between then and 1820 itw as under the jurisdiction of various noble families. In 1820 it passed to under the town of Montefalco. In reading about the town, refrences are made to the foundations of the castle are underground passages that lead out into the fields.
Convento di San Fortunato
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The two columns on the right hand side that ar round, are columns from an ancient Roman structure built on the location. The portico was rebuilt in the 15th Century.On the north side is the Chapel of Roses.
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photos: mytravellinglens.com
The convento, located just outside of Montefalco, is the location where a 4th century Roman basilica once stood. The church that now stands dates back to the 12th Century, and it has been restored a number of times. The church was one of the most iomportant religious places in the Spoleto diocese during the Middle Ages and the early Renaissance. Next to the original church was a castle of the Lombard dukes of Spoleto. The castle was destroyed. But on the ruins, the monastery was built.
Lenano
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Medieval towes remain in the hamlet of Lenano
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Old medieval towers that remain in the hamlet of Lenano
photos: mytravellinglens.com
Well my hunt to discover the unknown, it was very successful finding the small hamlet of Lenano. These are 14th Century towers from the former castle. Unfortunately the church was closed, but reports indicated it has numerous old frescoes. Today there is a population of less than 75 people! Not a destination for sure, but it is on the road to the Castelo di Campello Alto.
Castello di Campello Alto
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The old castle, at the top of a hill now has about 50 people left living in the houses, and many of them have been changed to a hotel the Relais Borgo Campello. But it is still a charming place to walk about and of course has views of the surrounding area. The castle and the fortified settlement dates to the 14th Century. Records indicate original construction by the Baron of Burgundy Rovero di Champeux dates to the 10th Century. The castle is noted in historical refernces of assults that took place in the 14h Century. The Counts of Campello took possession of the castle. The 16th Century church, San Donato, has beautiful frescoes but, as my luck is, it was locked on the morning that I visited the town.
Gualdo Cattaneo
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Not far from our apartment at Fonte Sala is the medieval village that stands on a hill on the slopes of the Martani Mountains. The impossing tower that stands in the centre of the old town dates from 1494. It was built to defend the castle. By the 16th Century the tower was not needed for defense of the town, and it became a residence for Cardinal Legates in charge of the city government.
Rasiglia
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I headed out to see Rasiglia, a small village, in the province of Perugia, that dates back to the Middle Ages. It is known as the Little Venice of Umbria and the Village of Streams as the village is crossed by many streams. Rasiglia is rich in history, and three of its best-known sites are its industrial buildings, the ruins of Rasiglia Castle, and the Sanctuary of the Madonna of the Graces. It is small, there is a very small parking lot just as your enter, or follow the signs to a much larger lot down a road and across a field. You may think you are driving to the middle of no where, but it is a relatively short walk back to the town.
Once in the town just walk the small streets, there will be a stream and waterfall no matter where you are. The village dates back to the 12th century. The village was on the famous Via della Spina, an important road where trade and commerce between the cities along the Adriatic Sea coast and the city of Rome took place. The Via della Spina was later replaced by other less bristling streets.
From Foligno take the state road 319 "Sellanese" that leads to the upper Valnerina, immediately after its detachment from the state road 77 in Casenove. The village is close to the road that crosses it.
Trevi
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The town of Trevi, on a hill of course.
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Trevi is a small town rich in history and art. Once a province of the Papal States, noble families gave much of the artistic and cultural heritage to the town. The view of Trevi running down the hillside as you approach is very beautiful and a highlight of a visit. The medieval centre of Trevi is a network of alleys and narrow streets still surrounded in part by the original defensive walls (built in the 13th century). The raised position of the town means it also has some exceptional views across the Umbria countryside as far as Assisi and beyond.
In centre see the Palazzo Valenti and Palazzo Comunale, arcades and porticos, vaulted passageways and features of architectural interest which make Trevi one of our favourite villages in the region. There are many churches.
I should know better, but, my mistake was I went there on a Monday morning. Well I had the town all to myself. Actually there was another tourist, a woman from Austria. We both found the catherdral's door locked. Luckily I bumped into here again later in the morning and she advised me the church was open.