Marcus Travel Journal

2023 - Paris

Paris, Louvre


The first week of our travels in France is in Paris. Oh, it will be good to return to one of our favourite cities.



We are close to - a three minute walk - to the Strasbourg Sant-Denis Metro (Lines 4, 8 & 9) and a 10 minute walk to Le Républic (Lines 3, 5, 8. 9 & 11) or eight minutes to Réaumur-Sébastopol (lines 3 & 4). So lots of option to link up with plenty of metro lines.

Our street, rue du Faubourg Saint Denhis, is named for the fact it is an extension of the Rue Saint Dehnis to faubgourg, and area that was outside the walls of Paris. Today, the Porte Saint-Denis marks the transition. It was a street of the upper class such as jewellers and textile merchants and it was the street for the King to use as a route to the Basilica of Saint Denis.

Paris apartment



This year we have to change apartments but found a previous printing site converted into apartments. Looks great! New area, well located.

We are about a 15 minute walk away from the location of our previous apartment (Rue Bachaumont), and I would take walks up to the Porte Saint-Denis often, so I do not feel like our location will be totally foreign. But the new area does open up easy access to different restaurants and sights.

Paris Apartment

There are many churches in Paris, some to note include:

  • La Madeleine - built in the style of a Greco-Roman Temple.

  • Sacré-Coeur - massive basilica, the chancel vault decorasted with a vast mosaic.

  • St. Eustasche - considered one of the fines churches in Paris with a mixture of Gothic and Renaissance styles. Modeled after Notre-Dame, it took 105 years to build the church.

  • St-Séverin - go through the impressive west door into a beautiful medieval church.

  • Sainte-Chapelle - built in 1248, you will never forget the 15 stained glass windows with the narrow stone columns that soar over 50 feet to the vaulted ceiling.

  • Panthéon - inspired by St Paul's Catherdral in London.

  • Alas, Notre-Dame is still in reconstruction.

Other points of interest incude:

  • Cloître de Billets - 24 rue des Archives, 65004 (Marais) - the only remaining medieval cloister in Paris. Built in 1427. Three of its four original galleries remain. The adjoining church is considered to be a simple classical building which replaced the original church in 1756. The cloisters are open 2 - 5 pm daily.

  • Bourse du Commerce - 2 rue de Viarmes. Metro: Les Halls. It had been closed for years but now has reopened and we are looking forward to visiting this location.

  • Promenade Plantee, a little further away from our apartment, this is a raised park built on a disused viaductr. A walk in this part starts behind the Bastille Opera House, and passes above avbenhue Daumesnil to the Jardin de Reuilly and finishes at Porte Dorée near the Bois de Vincennes. It is a 4.7 km walk and was the inspiration behind the Highlkine in New York.

  • Rue de l’Abreuvoir, in Monmarte, is one of the most photographed streets behind Sacre CVoeur Basilica, caobble paving stones and pink houses are the hit!

  • Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, located in north-east Paris, (Arr: 19), thye fifth largest park in Paris. Includes as lake, with an island and ontop of a rocky cliff is a miniature copy of the Roman Temple of Vesta (Tivoli, Italy). Above the lake is a 63 meter suspension bridge designed by Gustave Eiffel (Eiffel Tower).

  • Rue Cremieux (Err: 12) famous for its colorful houses. Originally built as construction worker's house, now a sought after street for residences.The last time I was there I had to work around all the No Photograph signs plastered on the houses.

  • Bercy Village (Arr: 12) has a public park, Pavillons of Bercy and a fairground. Bercy Village has a number of restaurants and boutiques housed in former wine cellars.

  • 13. Musée Jacquemart-André (Arr: 8), noted as one of the most beautiful museums im Paris, in the former house of Edouard Andre and Neilie Jacquemnart - no little house indeed!. It shows their collections of treasurers from travels to Italy and the Orient.

Robert et Louise

Restaurants to Try

Brasserie Dubillot, 222 Rue Saint-Denis - this popular and noted brasserie is about six minutes away. Noted in videos by Paris in my Pocket, it is a popular brasserie with classic dishes.

Bouillon République, 39 Boulevard du Temple - is another popular and noted brasserie that is just over a ten minuyte walk just off the Place de la République.

Boullion Julien, 16 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis. About a half a block up the street from the Porte Saint-Denis. Beautiful inside and noted in a number of videos about places to eat in Paris. An old Bouillon, snackbar, has become a fashionable brasserie, Bouillon Julien, well-known across Paris for its profiteroles.

Bouillon Chartier, rue du Faubourg Montmarte, 7 - located in a former rail station, it is a 15 minute walk or we can just take the metro to the Grands Boulevards stop.

Frenchie to Go, 9, rue du Nil - this is ten minutes away and is the take out option for the Michelin restaurant next door, Frenchie.

Les Philosophes, 28 Rue Vieille-du-Temple - this restaurant is a must for us on every trip. Not in our neighbourhood, located in the Maris. Line 11, from Républic will get us to the Hôtel de Ville stop and then it is just a few blocks.

Robert ete Louise, 64 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris - said to be an unpretentiuous little steak house where you can sit at the communal table and enjoy delicious potatoes, wood-fire cooked meat and a tasty creme brulee to finish the meal.

Le Grand Colbert, 2 rue Vivienne, 75002 Paris - in the Palis Royal, has always looked great. Turns out that is the restaurant where Jack Nicholsonh and Diane Keaton meet for dinner in the movie Something's Gotta Give. Classic dishes include roast chicken that Diane Keaton ate.

Paris Mood


While the 10th Arrondissement today is an authentic work and live area of Paris, at one time it was an area for the upper class. The grand Hôtel de Ville Finally, built on the former barracks of the Municipal Guard, on rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin. At the time the construction was one of the most expensive projects in Paris.

Paris Fashion Shoot


Paris! There is always a fashion shoot going on somewhere in the city.

10th Arrondissement

For many years we have stayed in the 2nd Arrondissement, this year we are just across Boulevard Saint-Martin, which is the divide betweeen the 2nd and 10 Arrondissement. Our apartmnent is located in the 10th arrondissement of Paris. On previous trips we have visited this area. Some of the key sights include:

  • Four areas: Saint-Vincent-de-Paul, Porte Saint Denis, Porte Saint Martin and Hôpital Saint Louis.

  • Porte Saint-Denis - used to be an entrance to Paris. Now it leads you from the 2nd into the 10th Arrondissement. One of the gates of the Wall of Charles V, which were one of the former city walls around Paris. There was an original gateway, built 1356 and 1383. The walls came down for stronger walls, and then because the city expanded so much. Louis XIV had the monumental archway built to honor the capture of Franche-Comté in 1668. The monument was built in 1672. It is inspired by the Arch of Titus in Rome. Restoration took place in 1988. It is one of the four triumphal arches in paris: arc de Triomphe due Carrousel (1808), Port Saint-Martin (1674) and the Arch de Triomphe (1836).

  • Porte Saint-Martin - built where a medieval gate once stood. Constructed in 1674 and restored in 1988.

  • Place Republique

  • Canal-Saint Martin - connects the Canal de l'Ourcq to the river Sein. Half of it, between Rue du Faubourg du Temple and the Place de la Bastille is covered. A 19th century project to make wide boulevards and public space. Built between 1802 and 1825 funded by a tax on wine.

  • Gare du Nord, Gare de l'Est - two of the busiest train stations in Europe.

  • Passage Brady, an 1828 iron and glass covered arcades between Rue du Faubourg Saint Denis and Rue du Faubourg Saint Martin. Known for its Indian and Pakistani restaurants.

  • Church of Saint-Vincent-de-Paul - 1824-1844 - built in an area that was once a Leper Colony in a marshy area of the road between Paris and the Basilica of Saint-Denis.

  • Church of Saint-Laurent - 119 rue du Faubourg Saint Martin.

  • Passage Prado, known for its Art déco decoration.

  • Passage de l'Industrie

  • Gustave Moreau Museum, 14 Rue Catherine de La Rochefaucauld, 75009 Paris. Clkosed on Tuesdays, open 10-6 other days. The museum highlights the life and works of artist Gustave Moreau.


10th Arrondissement

  • Marché Saint-Quentin - 85 bis, Boulevard Magenta - one of the handful of covered markets that still live on in Paris. This is the largest and most active. It was built in 19th Century with beautiful iron and glass construction. Daily from 8 to 8 except for Mondays and on Sunday it cloases at 1:30 pm. Buy some food here and head over to eat on the nearby Canal Saint- Martin. Just walk along ru e du 8 Mai 1945, at Rue du Faubourtg Saint-Martin, corss o ver towards the Jardin Vilemin, walk along All du Professeur Jeanh Bernard towads the canal

  • Marché Saint-Martin - 31-33 Rue du Château d'Eau - the second covered market, dating to 1859, it is a bit more modern than Saint-Quentin. Open Tuesday to Saturdays, and Sunday morning.

  • Hôpital Saint-Louis - Rue Bichat at Avenue Richerand - built by Jenry IV in 1600s. A similar feel to Place de Vosges. Beautiful inner park courtyard and warm coloured stones.


Basilica Saint-Denis


Basilica Saint-Denis

We visited the impressive Basilica Saint-Denis in May 2014 - almost ten years ago. It is a large, former medieval abbey, church which was a place of pilgrimage. It also contains the tombs of the Kings of France, almost every king from the 10th Century to that of Louis XVIII in the 19th Century. The Queens of France were crowned at this church.

It is remarkable that the church stills stands today. Many monastic buildings were damaged or destroyed in the French Revolution (1792). Saint-Denis was looted. The government removed and melted the lead tiles from the roof to make bullets! But Napoléon reconsecrated the church in 1806 and designated it as a future site for his own tomb.

There is a ticket required to visit the Royal Necropolis (tombs of the Kings).

Metro 13


Palais Galliera

Palais Galliera

10 Avenue Piettre 1er de Serbie, 75116 Paris

Over in the 16th Arrondisement, the Palais Galliera is the fashion museum. While we are in Paris there is a special exhbition for the fashion of 1997, which, according to the write-ups was as big year in fashion. Tickets in advance are needed, by on-line. Metro to Iéna (Line 9). Open Tuesday to Sunday, 10 - 6. Thursdays and Friday evenings open until 9 pm. Closed Mondays and May 1st. Tickets available on-line at the Paris Musée Billetterie. Little did I know, but the final scene of The Devil Wears Prada used the Palais Galliera - Miranda Priestly and her assistant Andrea attend a prestigious reception organized during Paris Fashion week.

Paris Passage Brady


Passage Brady

Passage Brady, named after merchant who financed construction, is one of two iron-and-glass passages - Passages couverts de Paris, remaining in the 10th arrondissement. Built in 1828, it is located between Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis and Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin. The section linking 46 due du Faubourg St Denis to 22/23 Boulevard de Strasbourg has its glass roof. The section between Boulevard de Strasbourg to 43, rue du Faubourg St Martin is open-air. It was originally an arcade with second-hand clothes, reading rooms and public baths. In the 1970s, with low rent, Indian and Pakistani business moved in. If I need a haircut, I remember this is one of the places I could go!

Other passages to revisit include:

Galerie Vivienne

Passage du Grand Cerf off rue Saint Denis - built in 1825 with an impressive glass roof.

Passage des Panoramas, at 11 Boulevard Montmarte (Arr: 2), the oldest covered passage in Paris.

Galerie Vero-Dodat, dates from 1826 and one of the first passage to get gas lighting in 1820.


Passage du Desire


Passage du Desire

On my 2022 visit to Paris I could not get through the gate. I thought it may have just been locked on the day I was in the area. But as I found out, this passage is an old private road running from 89 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Martin and ending at 84 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis.

Canal Saint-Martin


Canal Saint Martin

For a different Paris experience, walk along the Canal Saint-Martin. The streets along the canal have cafes for you to stop and relax. There is always some canal traffic to watch.

Passage du Grand Cerf


Passage du Grand Cerf

For many years, this passage was the route to walk to our apartment in Paris. I have always enjoyed walking through the bright cheerful passage. One of the best of the iron and glass covered passages in Paris. Entrance off Rue St. Denis or rue Marie Stuart/

Paris Wedding Dreams

Dreams of Weddings in Paris

Living Your Life in Paris

Living Your Life in Paris

The Looks of Paris

Paris Windows

Passage du Marché

: Passage du Marché

Passage du Marché is typical of the area. Startung at 60-62 rue du Faubourg Saint Martin there is an entrance to to the Marché Saint Martin. Follow thourhg the narrow covered. There is lots of street art, frescoes and graffiti.The passage created around 1858. Walking towards 19-25 rue Bouchardon is a courtyard and then closed passage.

Rue Mouffetard (Arr: 5)

I hope to get over to the left bank and walk rue Mouffetard - taking Metro line 7 to Place Monge and then walking west to rue Mouffetard. Referred to as La Mouffe, there are well preserved village houses dating from the 16th to 19th Century and has Paris Old Charm. AT 104 of rue Mouffetard is the Passage des Posts - it opens with a remarkable joist ceiling. Fromagerie Androet is a great cheese store, with a beautiful Rennaissance fresco above it.

Les Philosophes

If we are in Paris, then we will have lunch at Les Philosophes, located at 28 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 75004 Paris (Closed on Monday and Tuesday). It is located right beside rue du Trésor, a beautiful impass, dead-end walk walk with a rich history. Starting at 26 ure Vieille duy Temple, the stree is lined with shubs and colourful awnings. It opened in 1882 and cut throughy the grounds of the 1634 Hôtel d'Effiat, the residence owned by Marie de Fourcy, the widow of Marshal d'Effiat. Bad luck for the family resulting in beheading, the building was divided into multiple apartments and the manion became rentals for more modest people. The fountain at the end of the rue was added later, and is out of water.

Passages of Paris

Passage de l'Ancre
Access 30 rue de Turbigo - 221 rue Saint-Martin - Paris 3 Closed on weekends

This is an open-air private road accessible at 30 rue de Turbigo at rue Saint-Martin. It is an extention of rue Chapon. Like with multicoloured shops/buildings it is quite and we have visited it a number of times during our times in Paris. It dates from the 17th Century. This is in essence an extention of the Passage dur Bourg-l'Abbé as it connects Rue Saint-Martin to Rue du Bourg-l'Abbé - which has disappeared today, eaten up by the work of Haussman on the redesign of Paris. Renovations took place in 1998.


Jeu de Paume, Place de la Concorde - 1 Place de la Concorde (Arr: 8), Metro: Concorde. Closed Mondays and public holidays. Originally built by Napoleon III in 1861 as tennis courts (the game was called jeu de paume), it was used by the Nazis in the 1940s to store their stolen Jewish loot. Before 1986 it held many of the Impressionist paintings that now live at the Musée d'Orsay. Today it's used for changing photography exhibitions, and there's always something fresh and interesting on display.

MEP – Maison Européenne de la Photographie, 5 Rue de Fourcy (Arr: 4), Metro: Saint Paul. One of the largest collections of photographs in Europe is found in this pleasant building next to the St Paul Metro station, close to the Seine. The changing exhibits at MEP usually include three types of visual arts — photographic prints, the printed page, and video.

Foundation Henri Cartier-Bresson, 79 Ruew des Archives, Marais (Arr: 3). The foundation was created to promote and preserve the work of world-famous French photographer Henri Cartier-Bresson (1908-2004) and his wife Martine Franck. In addition to its preservation work and educational programs the foundation stages three or four exhibitions a year, with works by Cartier-Bresson, Franck or by other featured photographers.

Musée Carnavalet, 23 rue de Sévigné (Arr: 3) Metro: St-Paul, Chemin Vert. Carnavalet, an interesting Paris museums, is hoime to 150,000 historical photos, one of the greatest photography collections in France. It's a City of Paris museum, so entrance is free. Add that to the stunning new renovation and it's definitely worth spending time here.